2017-08 Bike Trip

From Holland to Paris, Morocco, Athens, Peru, Warsaw and Back

Karin and I take a long-weekend bike ride. Initally the plan had been another trip along Lake Michigan to the top of the mitten. Just the night before leaving however, Karin took a look at the map and saw we could instead make a circuit of Paris, Peru and Warsaw. Those destinations caught my own interest as well.

Rain in the morning was excuse to procrastinate our departure until almost eleven. In avoidance of US-131 for as long as might be practical, I paralleled along it's east side through Kalamazoo and Portage until the interchange at Shaver Road which was rather slow going. But it allowed for not joining US-131 until well south of the interchange at I-94 where we had many fewer big semi rigs to crowd us in blocking the view.

Crossing the state line into Indiana, once we passed under I-80, big trucks were almost nil. Nearing and passing through Middlebury we passed horse-and-buggy rigs more often than trucks. Keeping due south on IN-13 until US-33, and shortly after US-6, we turned due west passing through Nappanee and Walkerton. At US-35 we turned south for a ways until just north of Winamac where we swung west once more on IN-14. A short hop due west brought us to US-421 where we swung south. The scenery so far was a mixture of rual agriculture interspersed with small and medium-sized towns, all very pleasantly scenic and relaxing. The weather alternated periods of very light rain and only threatening more of the same. So at varying gas stops, on and off and on again went layers of rain gear, with or without my brooks leather jacket on underneath.

Our intention of making Paris by nightfall, already diminished by a late start and highway-avoidance zig-zags, by this point was seeming remote. But on reaching Lafayette it was still much to early to stop for the night. In avoidance of the divided highways, I-65 and US-55, I flew by the seat of my pants, guessing a route to the west of that bigger than average city ending up very near to Perdue University.

And here is where I get more than just a little bit lost. Not lost for knowing which way to head, the sun was lowering toward the horizion so direction was never in doubt. But as to which road I was on, or whether it would actually continue rather than peter out in a cornfield, for an hour or so I was a bit in doubt. Now it had looked like a very fine road indeed at the time I picked it when just breaking free of West Lafayette. It started out following a most lovely course very near to, and sometimes right alongside, the Wabash river. Near to West Lafayette, the pavement was fine, almost brand new. Further west and further west the seams and pot holes began to appear. At intersections I took the most likely seeming roads and began to worry, just a little, about the level of my gas tank. After a while the quality of road surface became quite negelected indeed, but was compensated for by lovely farmsteads and old homes. The road swerved this way and that, went mildly uphill and down, then came to a T-intersection where the side-road was paved and mine turned to gravel.

Coasting down to a stop on the gravel, I proclaimed to Karin that this looked like too much adventure, and worked the bike back around by way of a three-point turn. Back at the T-intersection the choice was either to retrace our steps (for which were both more than a little reluctant) or to try the paved side road. Along this side road were several houses, out of which a truck was backing. Taking Dirk Gently's advice on hollistic navigation methods, it seemed to me that the driver of that truck must know where he was going while I did not. So I decied to that driver choose for me. Said truck chose direction west. So right behind it, we continued our own route west. The name of that road, I seem to recall was Independence. Or possibly that was the name of a road we turned into shortly after. A bit further on, my guide truck went south and I split off once more west. The roads by and by got nicer again and in due course westerly road we chose last brought us out onto US-41 spitting distance north of Attica with the sun just dipping to the horizon.

Attic offerd zero prospect of a Holiday Inn Express, so we pressed on despite the lowering sun. Keeping due south on US-41, we stopped beneath the underpass of I-74 to consult the Rand McNally. Deciding on Danville IL for an overnight stop, we soon swung west on US-136. By Covington the sun had sank fully down so that it was fully dark by the time we crossed the state line and pulled into Danville. Stopping at a Dairy Queen, Karn order a shake and I a malt. While sipping our ice creams, Karin brought out her smart phone and located a nearby Holiday In Express, which is where we spent the night.

While travelling solo I quite often seek out the nearest mom-and-pop motel establishment so long as it appears neat and tidy. Those are very much cheaper but also a gamble. Not until you've already checked in do you get to see the room. With my wife riding pillion, though, I'm wholly inclined to leave the choice up to here. And she very likes the Holiday Inn Express for clean rooms and free breakfast in the morning. Not until acceeding the first time to her less econimical (but very much more dependable) preference did I learn also of a further advantage extended to bikers. The Holiday Inn Express freely permits that I may park the Royal Star just outside the main entrance where it is very convenient, guarded by cameras, and shielded from rain. At the end of a long, tiring ride ... and also first thing in the morning ... to un- and re-pack the saddle bags a ten-second walk outside the main door is very convenient indeed.

Paris IL

By lunch time the following day we arrive in Paris. Something of a step down from the Paris my wife knows from her long-ago visit to France, but by way of compensation, a goodly step up from the Paris that I remember from riding through Texas a few years back. At top left we firstly present iron-clad bragging rights of our visit to Paris (note world-famous landmark in background).

To get there from Danville we took something of a scenic route: west on US-150; south on IL-49, then southeast on IL-133. I'd warned Karin before starting out that hereabouts it was mostly flat, and here were fields to the horizon in all directions (where not obscured by a 7-foot wall of corn). And by now it was sunny and bright. Also cool. Truly excellent weather for riding. But choosing IL-133 for our way into Paris skirted the city proper so that nearly we missed it. Doubling back half a mile, we found a road leading in and soon came into a quite lovely town, in the very center of which is a truly magnificent courthouse.

Paris IL

Edgar County Courthouse

And at this courthouse I learned a bit of SF-buff relevent trivia. In the SF books (and TV series) The Expanse there is a Mormon generation ship named the Nauvoo. What I did not know is that there is also a town whose name is Nauvoo which is not far from Paris. And in that town some important moment in Mormon history once took place. A sign just outside the courthouse tied this event to the building itself. I could have learned this elsewhere, of course. But I enjoyed to find out like this. About Morminism I know next to zero. To me, as a Buddhist, it's just another minor branch of Abrahamic Monotheism with the advantage (or possibly elsewise) of a later revision. But I did have a Mormon friend once back in the navy, a fellow MN by the name of Joe Smiley. An excellent fellow and sometimes I wonder what he's doing now.

Edgar County Courthouse

Karin and I went inside the courthouse, as you can see. Walking along, Karin called my attention to the pidgeon perched upon an eagle statue and preening itself. I thought the bird very patient to hold its pose while I set up my tripod, taking shots from several angles, never once flying away. We then had lunch at a mom-and-pop place called The Paris Family Restaurant afterwards perusing local antique shops. Inside the Main Street Emporium I noted as how the counter arrangements were very well suited to an indoor 3D photo, so I set up the tripod and took a couple of shots. Having taken in the whole of Paris in less than two hours, we hopped back on the bike and headed out. Passing by the concrete eagle, we noted as how the pidgeon was still perched as before. Maybe he owns it?

Edgar County Courthouse

King of the Birds

Main Street Emporium

Heading north out of town from Paris we follow US-136. From there a brief jaunt due east on US-24 follwed by a turn north onto US-41 to Morroco. So Morocco may now be checked off on our list. Then due east again on IN-114 through Rensselaer until US-421 again. And here for a bit we retrace our course, seeing things from the opposite angle for an hour or so. At Winamac we continue due east onto unknown roads again.

2D Photos

Here are the photos taken by Karin on her Nikon CoolPix L32 camera.

Edgar County Courthouse

Paris IL

Edgar County Courthouse

Lunch Rochester IN

By Rochester it is drawing near to sunset again. There being no Holiday In Express, we obtain nearly equal facilities at the Comfort Inn just off US-31. And as turns out, we recognize the very McDonalds where we'd stopped for lunch on our much longer ride of last year. The Comfort Inn, as turns out, likewise invited that I may park the Royal Star right outside the main entrance under the porch.

Fulton County Courthouse

At the concierge's recommendation, we took dinner at a local establishment, The Streamliner. This was situated just across the street from yet another magnificent edifice occupying a whole city block and serving as the county courthouse. Having left the tripod back in our room, I came back later to get these pictures. The chopper was parked outside of a biker bar opposite the courthouse from the restaurant where we ate. I thought it worth photographing as well.

Fulton County Courthouse

Cool Chopper

Fulton County Courthouse Forgetting Athens

Departing Rochester, so I see by the map, we passed through Athens, which somehow left zero impression so that I can tell you nothing about it. In Akron we turned south onto IN-19. Passing through Gilead, it recalled to my mind Stephen King's masterwork The Dark Tower This rural highway presents some glorious scenery on the way to Peru. All along it the traffic was light and we had interesting sights.

IN-19

There had been three vultures perched on the ridge of that barn when Karin first called my attention. But by the time I'd stopped the Royal, removed my gloves, and pulled out the FujiFilm camera, two of them took alarm and joined company with other friends circling above. They seemed to find call for circling directly overhead, which seemd not an auspicous omen. So we thought best to mosey along.

Peru IN

Entering into the northwest outskirts of Peru we were met with a sign anouncing two things we had not known. Hereby did the town anounce itself as the Circus Capital of the World. And just below that, Cole Porter was from here. From what we could see at that vantage, however, the boasts seemed excessive. A very short ways beyond the sign was an extremely humble abode, almost delapidated, but with a quite large and new-looking Confederate Army (read defeated, slave-holding enemy culture) battle flag hoisted proud by itself. Doubtless this is Trump supporter. And I could just envision the penultimate New York city slicker requiring to be dragged, kicking and screaming, by his media prompoters for a photo op shaking the home-owner's hand (and rubbing his own with sanitizer immediately after). Stopping for gas, we doubled back to get a photograph of the sign, and for another, confirming impression, of the Peru Trump Campaign HQ/Stray Dog Sactuary.

Much disappointed by this dismal first impression, almost did we turn west immediately on IN-124. But once away from the hillbilly district, much more respectable homes began to appear. So we decided upon at least a palate-clensing taste of downtown. And were much elated thereby. Also surprised to soon discover that, yes indeed, Peru was for a fact the Circus Capital of the World. At one time anyhow, back when Barnam and Bailey plus several others all passed their winters here. There was even a Circus Museum, sadly not open on Saturdays at this time of year. Not far away, however, and offering similar fare, was a public museum, and here we parked for a look within.

museum

Miami County Museum

Tom Mix

Carriage

Circus Wagon Panels

Stage Coach

Circus Wagon Panels

Moose With Hat

Cole Porter

Fire Wagon

Mail Wagon

First Floor

Buggy

Model Locomotive

Period Display

Stuffed Animals

Evil Bunny

Two-Headed Calf

A stereo camera!

1888 Sleigh

Let my Wifey go!

Charlie

Bullet Holes 2D Photos

Here are the photos taken by Karin on her Nikon CoolPix L32 camera.

Peru IN

Peru IN The Seven Pillars

Several times while in Peru we were recommended to an event going on that same day at a place called The Seven Pillars not very far outside of town along the same road we'd thought to depart by anyhow. Heading out we saw signs put up for the event Seven Pillars Day. The day being still early, and the weather fine, we I followed those signs. They led off the highway and down a road paralleling a river. Along that road were was the home, quite stately, of a Miami indian chief. And other homes more in the shape of geodesic domes. At the end of that road there was being put on some kind event by members of the Miami tribe. And just beside that, across the river, were the famed Seven Pillars themselves. We parked the bike and went down to see.

Seven Pillars

And here below is the only video I took on this trip. Contrary to the narration, it is the Mississinewa River instead of the Wabash. In my defense I fall back on the evidence of Rand McNally, which names the Wabash but neglects naming the Mississinewa (probably because there was not enough room?). The video is on a separate page on account of I have yet to update my XML/XSLT stylesheet to support HTML5.

Seven Pillars Video Link

2D Photos

Here also are photos taken by Karin on her Nikon CoolPix L32 camera.

Seven Pillars

Seven Pillars Wabash IN

A little ways further east along IN-124 we turn north on IN-13 toward Wabash, which is where we have lunch after a walk around town. In a local store I saw for sale bottles of Kikapoo Joy Juice, famed in the Little Abner comics of long ago. Nearly I purchased a bottle just for show but talked myself out of it during lunch. Very hilly is downtown Wabash, parallel streets at different levels. Some of the alleys, though, they've brightened up nicely.

Wabash IN

Wabash IN Roann IN

Another attraction we kept hearing about was the covered bridge in Roann IN. We found it to be every bit as picturesqe as the one in Centerville MI. A nice quiet local. We stopped for a bit to enjoy the calm.

Covered Bridge

Roann IN

Karin

For the final leg home we continued due north up IN-15 through Goshen, then made the connection to MI-103, thence to M-40, arriving in Holland before it was dark. All in all, a little bit shy of 900 miles.